Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Easter Island: Reflejos de Marta

As many of you following our blog can gather, the majority of the posts have been written by Drew. Apparently, I am supposed to be in charge of the post-vacay reflections...so it is finally my turn to write about Easter Island!

We returned to Lima, Peru on Sunday afternoon after a glorious seven night stay on Rapa Nui. I never even thought of visiting Easter Island until I met Drew in the Peace Corps...unfortunately at that time it was prohibitively expensive to travel there and we had to return for med school interviews. Fortunately the pop-up expedia special with Lan's new route from Peru direct to Hanga Roa, Rapa Nui allowed us to make this amazing venture.

A few weeks ago I claimed I was going to have lots of time to take in the spirituality of Easter Island. But seriously, you are so isolated, seemingly by yourself at many of the archaeological sites due to few tourists, and surrounded by huge moai structures. There is something spiritual about that right?! The island is also perfect for all the outdoor activities that we love...hiking, mountain biking, and scuba diving.

Overall, the island is a bit baffling to me.
1) These tremendous structures were carved at a quarry in the middle of the island and then moved all over. How long it took to make them, or how they even moved them seems impossible. On the last day we visited the quarry and there are so many more moais in progress, it is hard to even know how many once existed. There is one that is carved into the stone rock that is at least 2 car lengths but was never moved. Crazy.
2) It is believed that the island was once deforested and now there is a small eucalyptus tree forest in the center of the island. Otherwise, the island looks much like the rolling green hills of Wyoming with tons of lava rock. Beneath much of this rock, there are many hidden caves - some natural volcanic caves and some constructed by the people to hide from Peruvian slave traders.
3) The current population of the island is about 3000 locals, all of which are supposed to live in Hanga Roa. The rest of the island is park area. However, the population does not seem to be very united or independent. For example, there are few, if any vegetables grown on the island. But for a few years tomatoes were grown in a green house - this of course lowered prices significantly. But after making money for two years, this individual decided that was sufficient productivity and money. Food is incredibly expensive and I have no ideal how locals survive. We only ate out once on the island because your basic meal cost at least $25 per person.
4) Easter Island really is an amazing and interesting place to visit. I'm happy I had the opportunity now. If you go, check out our tour guide - Paul - he is one of three permanent Americans on the island and has participated in some of the restoration projects on the island. He owns the Hotel Tekarera and a few houses (http://es.tekarera.com/). We stayed at the Kainga Ora house and loved it!

Please check out the prior posts and pictures. Our last day on the island was topped off with one last dive, a visit to the pristine beach Anakena and the quarry site with tons of moai, and of course the final sunset views. We are now back in Peru and have made it to our old capital city of Huaraz. We will venture to the great Callejon de Conchucos on Thursday. I have already enjoyed food at California Cafe and chatted with Luisa and Tim, met a 3rd year Peace Corps Volunteer in Huaraz, eaten at El Horno, and I am now eating huevos rancheros at Cafe Andina. Life is good. More pics and Huaraz updates to come soon.

Abrazos! Marta

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